Toledo has a history in the production of bladed weapons (think Toledo steel), which are now popular souvenirs of the city, if not somewhat overdone (and perhaps now a bit tacky).
Located 70km south of Madrid, Toledo (population 84,000) was the Visigothic capital of Spain from the fall of the Roman Empire until the Moors conquered the Iberian peninsula in the early years of 8th century (711-719). For some time during the 16th century, Toledo again served as the capital city of Castile; however, the Spanish court was moved to Madrid by Philip II in 1561, due to its location in the very centre of Spain.
At the Toledo train station, which sits about 500 metres outside the central tourist city area, there are all sorts of hawkers selling all sorts of tours, as well as books on Toledo and maps. However, by passing all of these (I already had a map that the apartment host had left for me), I came across a not-very-well-signposted official Toledo city tour information room; here, the very helpful gentleman gave me a free map which he marked up with places of interest, and suggested an itinerary that would suit my timing.
As I had read about the beauty of seeing Toledo from outside the city, I first wanted to walk the ring road, which runs for approximately 5-6km (it took a good 90 minutes), and I am so glad that I did - the views were well-worth the efforts, and while numerous tour buses pulled up at each of the scenic lookouts, I had the rest of the road virtually to myself.
The road is called Ruta de Don Quijote (or the Don Quixote Route - why these Spaniards have to change the letters in words is beyond me), after the famous fictional novel by Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra (or Cervantes as he is known) - considered to be one of the finest works of fiction ever written (note to self - must read it sometime).
There's not much to see in the synagogue, as it's little more than a shell, but nevertheless good to see.
After interest in his work resurfaced, a wealthy individual of Toledo bought the house he presumed (erroneously it turns out) was El Greco's, and turned it into a museum and gallery of El Greco's works and other works to the mid 20th Century. It turns out to be a fine gallery, and well-worth the admission price and the time.
After interest in his work resurfaced, a wealthy individual of Toledo bought the house he presumed (erroneously it turns out) was El Greco's, and turned it into a museum and gallery of El Greco's works and other works to the mid 20th Century. It turns out to be a fine gallery, and well-worth the admission price and the time.
This work by El Greco is of St Peter - note the keys in his left hand.
Once again, the architecture is overwhelming (I'm sure it's meant to be), with numerous chapels absolutely everywhere - around the ambulatory and through the middle of the central nave (of which there are 5). The cathedral measures 120 metres long by 60 metres wide, with 88 pillars and 72 vaults.
The artwork includes large pieces by El Greco, and many ornate pieces. Once again, the sacristy is an opportunity to show off the mind-boggling wealth held by the church.
The museum building itself is really quite beautiful in its simplicity. The gallery houses a number of high-quality works, including many from the 16th & 17th century Toledo school, including El Greco once again.
guys!
The building itself is small (at only around 8 square metres), but that's to be expected, as it is from the 10th century - so it's over 1,000 years old, which I find immensely impressive. There are some fading and partially intact frescoes adorning the walls, which are fascinating examples.